A Review of
The History of Beer and Brewing
in Chicago, 1833-1978
by John K. Notz, Jr., Chicago
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In 1984, Donald Bull, Manfred
Friedrich, and Robert Gottschalk
published American Breweries
(Trumbull, CT: Bullworks). A copy
found its way to Bob Skilnik,
descendant of a Czech-German
tavern keeper in an Irish neighborhood on Chicago's South Side.
Skilnik is neither a professional historian nor a chemist; he is a computer programmer. From this
unlikely author has come a sound,
well-written, 221-page book that is
a worthy supplement to Perry Duis'
writings on Chicago saloons.
American Breweries was preceded by The Register of United
States Breweries, 1876-1976 and
was succeeded by Dale Van Wieren's American
Breweries II (West Point, PA: Eastern Coast Breweriana
Association, 1995). All three are little more than
identifications and compilations of data. However,
Skilnik's book, which was generated by his analysis of
the dozens of breweries listed in his predecessors'
works as being in Chicago, breathes life into this
essential element of Chicago's social, political, and
economic history.
Skilnik's book, quite skillfully, brings focus to the
history of Chicago's beer production, distribution, retail
sale, and consumption patterns of some 145 years.
According to Skilnik, it was in 1833 when two
Germanic immigrants — William Haas and Konrad
(Andrew) Sulzer — brought to Chicago the equipment
necessary for a full-scale brewery: a load of malt, 150
barrels of ale, and $3,000 of working capital. In 1978,
145 years later, Peter Hand Brewery, the last of
Chicago's breweries until the creation of brew-pubs
and other small-scale production facilities, closed, leaving quite a void.
During the fourteen decades
covered by Skilnik's book, vast
amounts of beer were consumed in
Chicago, and substantial fortunes
were made from its production and
distribution, from the supplying of
ingredients and the equipment for
beer manufacture to the control of
real estate upon which taverns or
saloons were constructed. Some
part of these fortunes found its way
into the political process before,
during, and after the curious "Great
Experiment" of Prohibition from
1919-1933.
Skilnik, quite effectively, breaks
his history into four parts: "In the
Beginning...," "Pre-Prohibition,"
National Prohibition," and "Post-Prohibition." The
impact of Prohibition has been obvious, but the usual
discussion of it does not appreciate the dissention
between, on one hand, the distillers of whiskey and
other "hard" alcoholic beverages and, on the other, the
brewers of beer and the distributors of wine and other
"soft" alcoholic beverages. This dissention impaired
the entire "wet" industry's ability to meet the drive
towards Prohibition of the well-organized "drys." There
has been some appreciation of the ethnic alignment of
the Irish and Germans with the "wets" and the
Protestant "drys." There were, also, generational gaps
exemplified by the Chicago suburb whose town governance started with meetings at the local religiously
affiliated college. After some years, those meetings
took place at the local country club. Now, they are in
a Town Hall.
One could quibble with Skilnik over how he separated his first two sections, using 1900 as a watershed
year, but he recognizes that the Great Chicago Fire and
its aftermath caused much of Chicago's beer consump-
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tion needs to be met by the Milwaukee breweries.
Such remote production sites were aided and abetted
by the dramatic development of refrigeration.
In the clarity of hindsight, the late 1880s period
was a watershed for Chicago's beer production.
Chicago's beer consumption did not decline. Instead,
it rose, consistent with the emigration from Europe of
Poles and Czechs; their numbers emulated the emigration of Germans that had taken place after the
Revolutions of 1848 - emigration numbers that had
only been slowed by the American Civil War.
Pressures for beer industry consolidation arose.
Factors included labor union activity of 1886-1890
and the arrival of the English syndicates of investors
from 1889-1890. The McAvoy, Wacker, and Birk
families sold to one; substantial interests in the
Schoenhofen, Seipp, Dewes, Huck, and Bullen companies were sold to another. Construction of substantial new brewery capacity followed. In 1890,
beer price wars erupted. One consequence was the
creation of "tied houses," designed to assure distribution of product. Significant increases of license and
other fees during the 1890s only compounded the
working capital problems of the individual tavern
keeper. In short, the retail tavern/saloon business
became more capital intensive, and the amount of
capital committed by breweries to fixed assets
increased dramatically. The favorable environment
created by the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893
only masked the severe economic pressure on the
beer production industry of Chicago.
In 1900, the Schoenhofen family repurchased
control of its former brewery; contemporaneously,
harmony among the producers became the order of
the day. Skilnik found in the archives of The Chicago
Historical Society the 1900-1904 diary of John Weiss,
chief executive officer of the Gottfried Brewing
Company. Today, the contents of that diary would be
the smoking gun that would lead to anti-trust prosecution for the price-fixing of beer produced at
Chicago's breweries. Skilnik indicates that the issue
was survival for all breweries that were thinly capitalized or had permitted control to pass to family members who did not understand that plant modernization
and marketing expenditures took priority over distribution of earnings as high salaries or dividends.
Skilnik adequately describes the Prohibition years
of Torrio, Capone, et. al.; those years are so amply
described elsewhere that no additional comment
herein seems necessary.
Chicago's 1893 Columbian Exposition had its
analogue in its 1933 Century of Progress Exposition,
opening just as Prohibition ended. After playing off
the German-American and Irish-American voters of
Chicago against each other, Mayor "Big Bill"
Thompson was succeeded by the even more "wet"
Anton Cermak. Neither Cermak in Chicago, nor
Roosevelt in Washington, had any interest in continuing the "Great Experiment," and it came to an unlamented end, having created patterns of serious crime
and disregard of authority that have their echoes
today.
In the 1930s, in contrast to Milwaukee, Chicago
failed to restart its brewing industry, due to the fact
that the largest breweries were operating other than
in Chicago; then, these served the needs of the war
effort between 1941-1945. Some small Chicago
breweries continued to operate because, out of scarcity of product, the consuming public accepted off-brands. However, inadequacies of equity capital led
to deferred maintenance and small marketing budgets, and attrition continued. A last significant promotion effort was made by new management of the
Peter Hand Brewery (Meister Brau), but its expansion
was over-leveraged; and its house collapsed in 1978,
here Skilniks writing effort ends.
After a thoughtful epilogue, Skilnik provides a list
of what he calls "Brewery Relics" — sites throughout
Chicago where bits and pieces of the City's brewing
history can be found. He provides a clear map to
them. Following it is a glossary that is useful even to
an old hand, a list of brand slogans that provoked
fond memories, and an excerpt from the Chicago
portion of the 1984 edition of American Breweries.
This reviewer's Chicago history research has
parallelled that of Skilnik for 1869-1915. He has
been tracing the career of Edward G. Uihlein, the
Vice President - Export of the Joseph Schlitz Brewing
Company from 1872 until 1915. This research led to
familiarity with most of Skilnik's sources. Skilniks
bibliography lists published and unpublished sources,
standard sources and ephemera, and original manuscripts and analyses of secondary sources. While
Skilniks efforts cannot have been exhaustive, he has
used imagination in locating many of them. His least
productive tool was an ad in The Wall Street Journal
that sought responses from descendants of the many
families whose names appear in American Breweries
II. Only following publication, have they contacted
him (this reviewer was one such).
Skilniks first printing has sold out through the
author's own efforts. As this review is being written,
Skilnik is negotiating an additional printing. He is
pleased with the positive reception accorded to his
first published work. Its success has led him to consider a second book that will cover the years of beer
production in Chicago since 1978.
Copies of Robert Skilniks The History of Beer and
Brewing in Chicago, 1833-1978 (St. Paul, MN: Pogo
Press, 1999) may be obtained by contacting the
author at P.O. Box 793, Plainfield, IL 60544. It is
only available paperbound, and its price is $17.95.
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